Discovering Rize: The Hidden Gem of Turkey
A beauty tucked away in Turkey’s northeast region, near Georgia, is Rize province. This untouched alpine terrain is on the Black Sea coast and is often overlooked by international travellers. However, nature enthusiasts who prefer secluded spots, find Rize a captivating escape.
Rize, a seaside city, gives its name to this province. Beyond the city’s perimeters, one encounters its valleys and plateaus, nestled amidst lofty mountain ranges. Rural communities flourish here due to high rainfall, turning these mountain villages, known as ‘yayla’, into summer retreats.
Çamlıhemşin: Nature’s Masterpiece
The heart of Rize province is Çamlıhemşin, a charming district encompassing the town of the same name. Simplicity is key here, with untouched landscapes, quaint guesthouses, and homely cafes. Artistic souls thrive here, soaking in the tranquil surroundings for inspiration.
A journey to Çamlıhemşin from the Black Sea coast is a scenic extravaganza. You traverse green, mountainous valleys alongside the Fırtına River that flows from the majestic Kaçkar mountains. This region exudes timeless appeal with valleys, pastures, and alpine villages where forestry, beekeeping and animal herding remain vital income sources.
Embrace Traditional Living
In Çamlıhemşin, many traditional Karadeniz (Black Sea) houses have transformed into family-run guesthouses. Travellers get to immerse themselves in local culture while staying here. Owing to limited dining facilities in the area, guesthouse owners often serve homecooked meals featuring local cuisines, including the renowned Turkish breakfast with mıhlama, a popular dish of melted cheese and cornmeal.
Puli Mini Hotel in Çamlıhemşin town center is an exemplar of traditional Karadeniz architecture. It’s built with weathered chestnut wood and stone, with most windows overlooking the Fırtına River. The in-house café serves innovative dishes created from local produce.
High Altitude Living
The mountainous areas south of Çamlıhemşin house Rize’s ‘yayla’, or alpine villages. These are the cradles of local life, offering a unique experience akin to visiting a family’s mountain cabin. Here, accommodations are mostly old Karadeniz houses with sweeping views from high-altitude perches.
Spend a few days in these yayla. Trek through green pastures, explore woodlands, discover wildflowers, and breathe in the pristine air to truly cherish the Rize experience. One such example is Pokut, an alpine village where Zeyne and Ahmet Şişman’s guesthouse Plato’da Mola, is a beloved destination. This traditional house overlooks the Fırtına Valley and offers a delightful local experience.
Zilkale Castle: The Mountain Fortress
Among Rize’s magnificent sights, Zilkale castle stands out with the snow-tipped Kaçkar Mountains as its backdrop. This medieval castle, located amidst the valley, is believed to have been constructed between the 14th and 15th centuries. It offers stunning views of the valley beyond its ancient walls.
Rize: Where Tradition Coexists with Modernity
Şenyuva, a village about five miles south of Çamlıhemşin’s town center, has become a haven for former city dwellers. They’ve returned to their Rize roots to lead a simpler life. A curious addition to this traditional setting is Zua Coffee, Şenyuva’s only third-wave coffee shop. Here, locals and visitors enjoy espressos amid serene views of nature.
The Urban Refugees: Rewriting Rural Life
Apo and Elif Taşkın, the owners of Zua Coffee, have successfully transitioned from bustling Istanbul to the serene Şenyuva. Their café is a hub for both locals and tourists, offering not just coffee, but also a slice of life in Rize.
Elif, who hails from Rize, speaks of the rewarding simplicity they’ve found here, “Life here may have its limitations, but the serenity and connection to nature make it whole.”
Embracing the Mountain Trails
She advises tourists to explore the alpine villages between May and October. Staying in local guesthouses can enhance the understanding and appreciation of local culture and food. Elif recommends availing services of local guides, like Uğur Biryol from Pokutsal Tur, for trekking and truly experiencing the cultural richness.
The Curated Experience: Peri Dükkan and Çinçiva Kafe
Adjacent to Zua is Peri Dükkan, a charming store promoting local, organic, and sustainable goods. Deniz Demirci Tarakçı, the owner, sells products ranging from honey vinegar to homemade syrups, herbal teas, candles, soaps, and textiles.
Opposite Peri is Çinçiva Kafe, one of the few places that serve traditional Black Sea meals. The cafe offers authentic Turkish breakfast, lunch and dinner dishes including trout cooked in butter, potatoes with clotted cream, düğün kızartması (a local dish of fried meat) and cornbread with vegetables.
Rize through the Eyes of Artists
No More Lies, a Rize native and respected street artist from Istanbul, describes the peace and tranquillity of the place, “Friends from Istanbul came over, and they barely left the house. The view and the quiet were enough for them.”
Botanical artist Işık Güner, after nomadic travels, settled in Rize in 2015. Now residing in a cabin atop a mountain in the Fırtına Valley, she urges visitors to be respectful of the local culture and nature. She believes, “Coming to Rize shouldn’t be about rushing through everything and taking selfies. It should involve staying in a yayla, breathing in the air, absorbing nature’s fragrances, and drinking from its streams. Perhaps only then can one truly understand and become a part of this incredible natural world.”
In summary, Feride Yalav-Heckeroth rightly encapsulates, Rize province is a hidden treasure, untouched by the hands of commercial tourism. Its serenity, untouched landscapes, rich cultural heritage and simplicity offer an invaluable experience for those looking to travel off the beaten track.
